Runway Review: From Emporio Armani comes an assortment of wardrobe pieces perfect enough to update any wardrobe with, but the real story here were those directional Bermuda shorts that were the starting point for almost every look and were offset by a surprising girlishness.
In their words:
‘LITTLE WINTER FOLLIES’
A play on clothes, fun little touches of pure fantasy: the more the search for form is calibrated, the more the collection becomes a surprising interpretation of pieces, mixed with lightness and freedom.
The common element, which completely changes the silhouette, are the trousers that end at the knee with a brand new cuff-effect, finished off as always with opaque hose. The jackets have straight, masculine shoulders that give a sense of strength to a soft, unstructured line, which is also seen in the cardigans. The colour palette, which includes black, white, Indian red and amethyst blue, has the iridescence of velvet, and is also reflected in the abstract brushstroke-effect print.
Valance and large flat taffeta roses create surprising effects: constructing technical garments that seem as thick as a fur coat, with smooth sleeves (still in taffeta). Just two of these flattened roses are needed to close a blouse: a functional decoration, used also for knitted and low-cut dresses made all the more unpredictable by the addition of Bermudas.
The entire collection is animated by fun, ironic touches, infusing lightness, and which, like true folies d’hiver, allude to the style of the Roaring Twenties: belts that create mini-basques, worn occasionally two at a time; tulle T-shirts with sequinned stripes; fringes; sequins embroidered onto tulle; basques; and jet necklaces.
Extraordinary bags and shoes: long, tambourine-shaped shoulder bags, like huge powder compacts; handbags of floral velvet or velvet combined with net mesh. Flat slippers with floral fabric toes, and shiny masculine lace-up shoes.
Photos: Emporio Armani
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