JOHN VARVATOS Fashion Show Photos / Runway Collection Fall / Winter 2014
Milan Fashion Week – Menswear
Designer John Varvatos unleashed a heady rock’n roll brew for Fall 2014 while taking cue from iconic band KISS and their signature made up faces to conjure an aura of mysteriousness and strength. And he just so happened to present the band in tow for his latest collection while unveiling them as his Spring campaign superstars and current muses.
And once you look past the at times not-for-everyone second skin leathers, there were plenty of gorgeous and cool suits to go around any arena.
“I wanted to sprinkle a little magic dust throughout the clothes in this collection, highlighting the idea of sartorial daring and masculine confidence that is integral to my vision, bringing it a new level – says John Varvatos
While working with KISS on my new advertising campaign, I was taken by how much everybody, regardless of their age, loves them. For me, it is the idea of the superhero, a man in disguise with incredible powers, that makes the KISS myth so enduring and appealing, and it’s exactly that mindset that I wanted to explore, adding a dash of fantasy to my work while keeping tailored finesse and elegance high on the agenda. The result is energetic and strong, for a confident man who dares.”
In their words…
The collection is characterized by movements that create a revolving sense of surprise. The silhouette is slim and elegant. Jacquard silk tuxedo jackets are worn with stretch leather jeans; double breasted flannel suits sport heather silk lapels, for a new vision of the tuxedo. Craft is hidden from intruding gazes, like a precious quality: embroidery under the collar of a jacket, tonal jacquards on knitwear. Innovative weaving and expert treatments give fabric a feather-like, animal quality on tailored coats.
The shimmering quality of metal adds toughness and a shine: embossed silver calfskin is used on the blouson, or as an armor patch on zip-up jackets that draw a superhuman figure; silver sleeves contrast the cream body of a motorbike jacket. Silver toggle closures punctuate the outerwear pieces as visual marks.
A fluid coat made of washed calfskin and wool has a certain severity, while cut-out fabric feathers swarm on the shoulders of the slim coat, making it ready for the stage. This succession of contrasts finally settles on the winter whites of double breasted coats, cutaway suits and shearling coats with a refined and martial allure.
The color palette is nightly and shimmering, with sudden surprises. Black, charcoal, silver, grey, either matte or metallic, give way to heather and light grey and finally open up to creamy white. Fabrics are masculine, with a tactile quality: brushed wools, flannel, washed calfskin, feather-effect weaves, silk and cashmere yarns.
Accessories include massive boots with thick soles, brushed leather boots with a shimmering effect, black lace-ups edged in white. Portfolio bags sport silver toggle closures, while oversized totes are painstakingly crafted. Modified top hats and sterling silver jewels punctuate the looks.
>> SHOP: John Varvatos at Bloomingdales and johnvarvatos.com
Runway watch video…
1). “Chemistry” – UNKLE
2). “Let the Day Begin” – Black Rebel Motorcycle Club
3). “Morning Rage” – UNKLE
3). “Tonight, Tonight” – Smashing Pumpkins
4). “Rock & Roll All Nite” – KISS
Photos: John Varvatos