JOHN VARVATOS Men’s Collection
Milan Men’s Fashion Week
FW 09/10 Men’s Collection
from the designer…
John Varvatos looks to rock and roll’s fashion heritage to shape his fall 2009 collection, reworking it into a dressed-up line that’s polished with a glamorous edge. Every element of the collection: silhouette, detailing and proportion, is given a contemporary gloss. The palette is dark, moody and elegant. Black reigns, with charcoal, burgundy and rich chocolate accented by tones of grey and inserts of white. (continues below)
Distinguished by its hourglass shape, John Varvatos has softly evolved his silhouette into a more modern, sleeker profile. A slender but well-defined shoulder skims down to a nipped in waist and a lean trouser leg that finishes with a slight flare just below the ankle.
Tailored looks come in evening structures, characterized by shawl collars, rich tweed and plaid fabrics and a cummerbund-turned-sash that sits swathed on the hips. Tonal layered suits: a double-breasted flannel dove gray jacket is constructed with a contrasting darker smoke-hued flannel lapel and paired with a silvery shirt and tie. Another narrow-cut, one-button gray suit is outlined with black-tipped notch lapels and welt pockets. Vests, in crinkled wools and smooth cashmeres topped with felted closures, reveal inside buttons and linings printed with a fluer-de-lys pattern. A velvety chevron design is flocked over a tweed evening jacket. White trim, button-down, spread collars top striped, patterned and check shirts. Gauzy cotton voile scarves with a floating paisley print are tied around the looks. Hats are pliable, modified felted bowlers.
Long outerwear descends to a subtle A-line and emphasizes the sleeker silhouette. Coats are double-breasted, high-collared and trimmed with antiqued metal buttons. Built in dramatic shapes: a wool coat’s base unzips to curled-like tails, another take on the trench is given an inverted triangle silhouette with prominent shoulders and lithe belted hips. Modern fabrics polish up casual styles, like the polyutherene coated cotton/linen parka that shimmers with a soft, cracked finish in antiqued silver, and a cotton-touch nylon jacket, padded and emphasized with a exaggerated collar and loop buttons.
Leather’s long-standing fashion role in rock and roll is reinterpreted with a new sleek, elegance. A printed plaid collarless leather jacket is washed so soft it has the hand feel of a cashmere fabric. A suede trench and motorcycle jacket are washed to become lighter and more refined. Chocolate shearling is cut into a hooded parka with a lustrous pony skin finished exterior.
Elongated hand-finished cashmere knits trail out from shorter jackets, marking the juxtaposing proportions. Full-length dark cashmere sweaters are trimmed with horn buttons and crochet edges. Fine rib knits and printed stripe cashmere Henleys are embellished with small metal buttons.
Headlining accessories is the debut of John Varvatos’ new jewelry collection. Cufflinks, rings and bracelets are handcrafted from sterling silver, black onyx and brandish diamonds. Necklaces feature weighty, eye-catching trinkets, like the famed Venetian doctor mask. Heraldic style medallions, some sprouting a plume of feathers, adorn jacket lapels and ties. A refined, updated silver safety pin closes knits and vests. Double-twisted intricate chains link around boots, while chain belts link up with a fleur-de-lys design, a recurring ornamentation throughout the collection.
All photos, this page only, courtesy of John Varvatos.
–January 26, 2009