Runway Review: Back to NYFW for a second look with spring hits from DKNY, Cynthia Steffe, Jeremy Scott, Cynthia Steffe, Lyn Devon at Olivier Thyskens at Theory
Naveed Hussain is circling Fashion Week around the globe and takes a step back to reflect on more from New York, particularly with some of the hottest designers for all the pretty young things and those with fresh look.— S.H.
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Cynthia Steffe, the younger girl’s go-to budget friendly alternative, was on track for Spring 2011 with a collection that was chalk full of effervescent color, and clean, uncomplicated sportswear that felt right on the money and considerably cool without risking each piece’s endless amount of wearability. Here, a smart mix of re-thought vaguely preppy basics, a trove of variations on the jumpsuit and techie details only made the look sweeter.
Over the past few years, DKNY has repositioned itself as one the U.S’s most formidable go-to labels for regular folk and die-hard fashion folk like ourselves with collections that can fill the void in just about anyone’s closet. For fall, we and just about every other fashion fiend out there can’t wait to get our hands on the label’s on-the-money contrast blazer with leather sleeves and our bets are on Spring’s khaki midi-skirt for next season. It’s clear that this label understands the trends of each season and are up for the challenge on making them their own. While variations on scarf dressing were the key anchor, perfect pants, ruffled blouses, sash bow belts, all with a Parisian sensibility, are sure to become closet constants for season’s to come.
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Kanye West in the front row and a slew of other celebrity-types, fashion and other-worldly, were on hand to cheer one of the state’s truest rebels, Jeremy Scott. This designer is known to take a theme and run with it to heights of great camp-proportion and somehow churn out clothes that are so wearable, affordable, cool and yet ballsy, people can’t get enough. From hip-hoppers to Harajuku girls to fashion glitterati, his appeal is incredibly broad in scope. Scott is one of those gifted designers who is lucky enough to see his perverse productions make their way through the fashion cycle, which is a considerable fete on its own. It’s 2010, Scott is flying high on a decade long run of successes and Spring 2011’s "Trash" collection was a look back at the many trompe l’oeil hallmarks of his career. Printed & sequined tire marks, shopping bag tanks and dresses, safety pins, butcher’s meat prints, crushed conal can bras, garbage pail conal body-con dresses, "admit one" ticket stub dresses, men’s underwear, and crosses galore, are sure to keep them coming back.
Day wear doesn’t get any easier than what we saw at Lyn Devon for Spring 2011. Clean, crisp, uncomplicated, dignified sportswear in sumptuous fabrications make us want to tell you, if you need help putting together sharp looks for an on-the-go lifestyle, look no further than Lyn Devon. It’s that simple. The first three looks made Devon’s case for sophistication in daily dressing a mandate that should be heard loud & clear.
Lucky for us stateside, that while Olivier Thyskens continues to float around in between labels, he’s temporarily landed at Theory, that arbiter of great work-wear classics. And it seems to be a perfect union as Thyskens displayed his deft hand at producing beautifully constructed pieces that radiate from a louche appeal and sober spirit. It’s not all poetry and dreams this time around though, on display were relaxed curved shouldered tunic-length jackets, an assortment of precision cut pants and knit dresses that all hover around a friendly $700. — Naveed Hussain