Quietly gorgeous, beautifully designed pieces that are right on the money for her many many followers
The invite to Tia Cibani’s Ports 1961 s/s 2010 rtw show, which she entitled “Fleure” – was an accordion folded geisha’s fan and it stood out in a sea of heavy card stock and virtual invites. Maybe it was a little literal, too easy a hint at what was to come, but it worked. And when the lights went down and then up, a nice hushed energy filled the room.
The models seemed to radiate from a shadowy zen garden.
Cibani invited 2 amazingly talented craftsmen to help realize her take on Japonisme: Julia Lundsten the designer of Finsk – whose moulded stingray pumps with surface treated hardwood platforms that made them look like metal,organza ballet flats and bags composed with single pieces of leather and stingray grounded the looks. Much to my pleasure, Lundstens accessories provided a futuristic counterpoint to the earthiness of the garments. There was a of kind coldness and distillation of form in her neck pieces which were made of shredded silk on clear vinyl and tied long and carelessly on the neck. in the transparent pink vinyl obi belts and giant floral brooches in perspex.
Print-maker/textile designer Ritsuko Hirai provided the “nature” by hand painting and inking her drapey silk sheaths w twigs and dyes the materials used in trad Japanese art work.
Cibani’s palette ranged from “dawn, conch, oyster,”buff and cloud”,”bloom, talc, oasis”, “dew and moss”,”shadow…nest and…eclipse”. Best were the touches of “exuberant cherry” in the folds of back exposing cowl sheaths.
Particular favorites were a pearl colored duchess satin coat with a raised, shoulder baring portrait collar. Very sixties and structured. Just the opposite but complimentary were the loose and lovely knotted jersey dresses and the a line silk shifts with subtle back pleated shifts.
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Altogether it was a well realized show. Though some of the looks verged on the literal – – – -kimono dresses with obi’s lashed below the chest – – -most whispered modernity. The accessories provided a nice counterbalance to the all the zen. When taken apart Ports 1961 s/s 2010 has many quietly gorgeous, beautifully designed pieces that are right on the money for her many many followers. — Andrea Perini
Photo, this page only, courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York